Hobo Class Rules
- All interior glass, carpet, headliner, and unused seats must be removed and swept clear of all debris.
- All door handles must be removed and all exterior moldings, tail lights, lenses and headlights must be removed.
- You must install a 2”-6” square or round metal 1/8” thick directly behind driver’s seat with a 6”x6” metal plate on either end of the bar. (This bar may be welded to the door post for safety.)
- Battery and gas tank must be removed from original location and securely fastened to the floor board inside passenger compartment. Use factor gas tank straps or chains to secure battery to the floor. Use only ratchet straps to secure cover over the top.
- Dash may be left in. If you remove it, you may put a bar in place of the dash.
- Gas tank may be used if it has the internal fuel pump that is needed for vehicle to run. It must be securely fastened to the floor in the back seat area.
- Two windshield bars must be installed. Weld or bolt them from the roof to the firewall area. Must be a minimum of 5/8” diameter and up to 1” wide 1/8” thick.
Car Building Rules
- Cars must remain stock unless stated otherwise in these rules. Any alteration to these rules will move you to the limited weld class. NO FRAME SHAPING OR BODY SHAPING ALLOWED.
- Bumpers can be changed out to any car bumper (if it did not come with a 5 mph shock bumper you may put one on). Must use the brackets that came with the year, make and model of car. Brackets can be welded to the bumper and to the frame in stock location. Bumper can be welded to frame with no foreign material; brackets must remain in stock locations on frame (no stretching brackets back on frame).
- Driver’s door can be fully welded for safety. All remaining doors must be chained or bolted shut or may be welded with a 4” long by 3” wide strap in 4 locations on each door. Chains 3/8” minimum of 4 locations per door. Bolts minimum 5/8” up to 6 locations per door. Choose one method to hold doors only not more than that.
- Trunk must be chained or bolted shut or may weld with 4” long by 3” wide strap in 4 locations. Same as in doors for size of chain or bolts. TRUNK MAY BE TUCKED AND 60% MUST REMAIN IN STOCK POSITION.
- No welding to or on frame (except bumper brackets and motor mounts) of any kind. No re-welding factory seams. No tampering with factory body mounts (i.e. rubber bushings).
- Factory motor mounts can be welded solid. You are allowed to weld two 4” long pieces of angle iron per frame rail on top of frame rail. One behind the a-arm and on or in from of a-arm to use to bolt down your motor with chain only. No solid motor mounts to frame.
- Fender may be pre-cut, but not re-welded or bolted.
- Suspension must be at stock height with no spacers, blocks, extra leafs. Must have stock rear end of make, model, and year of car. No chaining of rear ends. Must have working suspension traveling minimum of 2”.
- Motors may be interchanged (chevy to mopar, mopar to chevy, chevy to ford and so on) but must be mounted to meet rule $6. Must use stock drive shaft that came with care, can weld on end to match motor. NO SLIDERS
- Hood may have a maximum of 6 hold down bolts not to exceed 1” in diameter. Front two down through the core support may be run through body mounts on frame. Other must be welded to tin only. Hood must have 12” holes cut completely out for safety.
- Radiators must be in stock location. No water barrels or auxiliary cooling of engine allowed.
- After market steering, gas pedals and shifters are allowed.
- Tires inside tires, tube all okay. No water or other ballast is tires.
Repair Rules for Pre-Ran Cars
- Steel plates as repair to damaged frames on used cars are allowed. No steel plates allowed on fresh cars at all (if it is rusty you must run it first then can plate). Up to three spots per frame rail is allowed (builders choice). These plates may be up to 6” long and have a maximum thickness of 1/8”. These plates may be as tall as required for that particular section of frame rail. These plates must have an edge extend above and or below the frame rail (minimum ½” exposed) to allow verification of plate thickness. These plates may be butt welded together but may not overlap. These plates are allowed as repair only on used cars and must be legitimate repairs. All plates must have a 1” inspection hole in center of them to verify that is a repair.